How to Scale an STL Miniature to 32mm — or Any Size You Want
Every slicer scales models by percentage, but percentages mean nothing until you know the model's real height. Here's the whole method.
The one formula
scale % = (target height ÷ current height) × 100
Say a model is 1898mm tall at 100% (many sculpts export at "real human size") and you want a 32mm-scale figure. Human-sized characters at 32mm scale stand about 32-35mm to the eyes, so: 33 ÷ 1898 × 100 ≈ 1.7%. Type that into the uniform-scale box in Cura, PrusaSlicer, Lychee or Chitubox and you're done. Our product pages list each model's exact dimensions so you can run this math in ten seconds — models in our catalog that ship pre-scaled to ~120mm need roughly 27% for a Medium 32mm figure instead.
Quick reference for D&D sizes
| D&D size | Base | Figure height (approx.) |
|---|---|---|
| Small / Medium (goblin, human, orc) | 25mm / 1" | 28-35mm |
| Large (ogre, minotaur) | 50mm / 2" | 40-55mm |
| Huge (giant, young dragon) | 75mm / 3" | 60-90mm |
| Gargantuan (ancient dragon, kraken) | 100mm+ / 4" | your printer's the limit |
Scale monsters by their shoulder or eye height, not the tip of a raised weapon — a minotaur whose axe adds 20mm will look tiny if you scale to total height. Our minotaurs list a "D&D scale class" in the specs for exactly this reason.
Display pieces
The same formula works upward: 75mm collectible ≈ 60% of a 120mm model, a 150mm bust ≈ 125%. Resin printers handle upscaling gracefully; on FDM, bump perimeter count when you go past 100mm so thin weapons stay strong.
Two mistakes to avoid
Never scale X, Y and Z separately — one wrong axis gives you a flattened goblin. And re-check supports after any scale change: contact points that worked at 100% are too thick at 27% and will scar the sculpt.